10 AMAZING DAYS IN PERU

I fell in love with Peru from the moment I landed in Lima. From the sprawling, busy capital city to the unbelievable heights of Machu Picchu, this South American treasure offers travelers a mindblowing mix of ancient history, stunning landscapes, and world-class cuisine. Welcoming over over 1.5 million visitors annually, Machu Picchu alone lures visitors from around the world as one of the “New 7 Wonders of the World.” Whether you’re an adventure seeker, history buff, or foodie, this carefully crafted 10-day itinerary through Lima, Cusco, Rainbow Mountain, Machu Picchu, and Lake Titicaca will help you experience the best of Peru without feeling rushed. Pack your bags and get ready for an unforgettable 10 amazing days in Peru.

DAY 1 LIMA

We landed in Lima around noon. After checking into our Airbnb in San Miguel, we grabbed an Uber out for a delicious lunch near Museo Larco.  We stopped into a nearby restaurant for delicious Peruvian grilled chicken skewers, our first Inka Kola and some yummy sangria tinta to celebrate the beginning of our adventure.  I couldn’t believe how inexpensive the food was at about $5 per person. The portions were enormous and way more than any of us could eat.

With our bellies full, our next stop was the stunning Museo Larco.  Founded in 1926, by Rafael Larco Hoyle, this museum is perfection in every way: beautiful 18th Spanish architecture, stunning gardens of bougainvillea and twisted succulents, and a mind-blowing collection of artifacts spanning more than 5,000 years of Peruvian history.  The extensive pre-Columbian collection of ceramics, gold and other artifacts is fascinating, depicting wildlife, human sacrifice and sexy time.  I highly recommend a tour in English or Spanish for an in depth look at the pieces on display as well the evolution of techniques and subjects over time. Admission to the museum is 40 soles or around $11.

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After dark, we grabbed another Uber and headed over to explore the Magic Water Circuit. Having read reviews on this spectacle, I thought it was going to be super-cool.  For me, it was just okay.  It’s a nice photo op I guess, but everything else in Peru was so next level, I just don’t rate it very highly. For under $2 it’s certainly worth a visit.

PRO TIP, EXCHANGING MONEY AND/OR GETTING LOCAL CURRENCY

Exchanging my dollars at the airport was going to be a total rip-off. Instead, withdraw Peruvian Soles from the ATM in the Lima airport when you arrive. The service fees are much less expensive.  If you still need to exchange your original, local currency while in Lima, I recommend looking for a “Casa de Cambio” in touristy areas. I withdrew enough money for our day in Lima and exchanged my dollars in Cusco “Casa de Cambio” for just $5: that was a savings of $75 over airport prices.

We chose to stay nearer the airport in the neighborhood of San Miguel because we had a very early flight to Cusco in the morning.  The AirBnb had all the basics, but I was surprised to find that a lot of homes in Peru don’t have heating. It was a little chilly, so come prepared with cozy pajamas, a sweatshirt and something to keep your feet warm.

AWESOME TOURS IN AND AROUND LIMA

WHERE TO STAY IN LIMA

• **Spacious Private Room bright and clean modern apartment conveniently located near Barranco. Guests rate their stays as exceptional. Enjoy a full kitchen, gym and outdoor barbecue.
• ***Antigua Miraflores Hotel A chic hotel in the heart of Miraflores. Guests love the helpful, friendly staff, tastefully decorated rooms and common areas, safe, convenient location and the delicious breakfast.
• ***One Bedroom Ocean View Gorgeous and modern one bedroom apartment with city and ocean views. Full kitchen, cozy furniture, gym and rooftop pool access.
• ****Casa Republica Barranco Boutique This hotel is rated exceptional. Guests love the beautifully renovated property, kind staff, top-notch breakfast and popular neighborhood.

WHERE TO EAT IN LIMA

• Tanta this Peruvian chain restaurant is popular for a reason. The food is amazing. I’m not a fan of chain restaurants, but this is an exception. Cooking up everything from Peruvian favorites like lomo saltado and ají de gallina to scrumptious pastas and salads, there’s something for everyone here. Don’t skip dessert!
• Isolina Taberna Peruana Recently ranked number 12 on the list of Latin America’s 50 best restaurants, Isolina Taberna Peruana serves nostalgia on a plate. Its dishes are inspired by homecooked, traditional meals using the best, local ingredients: beans, seafood and fresh vegetables and breads.
• Central this restaurant was named as “The Best Restaurant in the World, 2023” by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. That’s obviously an impressive feat. The menu is based upon Peru’s microclimates and features ingredients found across Peru from the Pacific Ocean to Andean heights. Choose from a variety of dining experiences ranging from 2 to 6 hours.

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DAY 2 CUSCO

We arrived very early at the airport for our one hour and twenty minute flight to Cusco with LATAM. Flying over the Andes was truly amazing.  The images of the jagged, snow-capped mountains are forever burned onto my brain.  When we arrived at the airport in Cusco, we grabbed an Uber to Casa de Cambio, Multi Dolar, on Avenida el Sol, so I could exchange the $500 cash I had brought with me. Then we checked into our Airbnb, not too far from Mercado San Pedro. It was really comfortable and our hosts were very kind. 

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Cusco sits 11,150 ft (3,399 m) above sea level. For the majority of people, this is definitely much higher than they are used to, so it’s recommended to give yourself a couple of days to acclimate to the altitude. Walking, especially uphill, feels a little more strenuous, so take it easy. I loaded up on coca candies and even tried a coca tea upon arrival.  I’m not sure what effect, if any, they had on me, but, at the end of the day, we all felt well for the duration of our stay.

Cusco is a beautiful colonial town blending Incan and Spanish history.  It’s like stepping back in time exploring ancient cobblestone streets, colorful stucco facades and rich indigenous culture around every corner.  First, we loaded up on llama souvenirs, beautiful alpaca blankets and cute bags at Mercado San Pedro at bargain prices.  While the kids watched a football game at El Cuadro bar, I continued wandering the streets meeting the sweetest baby alpacas, popping into historic cathedrals and shopping for textiles and trinkets to my heart’s content.  

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WHERE TO STAY IN CUSCO

• **Hotel Inkasabios Cusco Midrange hotel with incredible terrace views. Friendly staff, delicious breakfast and beautiful grounds.
• ***Atoq San Blas Hotel Located in the beautiful San Blas neighborhood, visitors love the fact that this hotel is quiet, with beautiful views in a safe spot away from the busy center of town. Travelers rave about the cleanliness and super friendly staff. Rooms are very tastefully decorated.
• ***Casa Cruz Verde by Peru Garden Hotels Centrally located hotel in the heart of Cusco. Consistently praised for beautiful rooms, friendly staff and delicious breakfast. Spotless with excellent amenities.

WHERE TO EAT IN CUSCO

• El Cuadro We had a really delicious meal at El Cuadro in the center of Cusco. This restobar has a little bit of everything: pasta, sandwiches, meats and fresh vegetables. The food pairs deliciously with a Cusqueña beer: a staple of my trip.  This light lager is so refreshing.
• Organika is a cozy outdoor cafe serving up delicious sandwiches, salads and pizzas with ingredients straight from their farm one hour outside of Cusco. Everything was perfect and the atmosphere was really lovely in a garden-like setting nestled on the hillside of Cusco.
• La Bodega 138 Delicious Italian food made with fresh, local ingredients. I had the La Bodega 138 pizza with leeks, mushrooms and bacon while my daughter had a delicious pasta arrabbiata. The restaurant offers a variety of local craft beers that pair perfectly with your meal.

Later in the evening, we grabbed a few snacks and returned home early to get set for our adventure to Rainbow Mountain the following day.  We had to be out the door at 3:30 in the morning to make our way to one of Peru’s most iconic landmarks.

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DAY 3 RAINBOW MOUNTAIN

Sitting at 17,060 feet above sea level, Rainbow Mountain or, Vinicunca, as it’s called in Quechua, is a relatively new attraction in Peru. In 2015, this iconic mountain, high in the Andes, gained international renowned as global warming melted the snow and ice that previously hid its famous “rainbow”colors.

Getting up out of bed to get ready for the 3 hour ride to Rainbow Mountain was a real struggle in all honesty. I had only slept for a couple of hours.  I arranged our tour with Inka Altitude through Get Your Guide. They arrived right on time outside of our house, picking up other travelers along the way. Just as day was beginning to break, we stopped for a buffet style breakfast where we filled up on fruit, cereal, juice and eggs. My son sneaked off to buy himself a poncho as he hadn’t heeded my advice to bring a heavier coat.  

It truly felt surreal as we wound our way through the Andes. Here we were in South America, on roads I had only ever seen on TV. My daughter and I marveled at the naturally terraced landscape cut by ancient glaciers. We caught the occasional glimpse of llamas and alpacas grazing on hillsides and indigenous peoples going about their daily chores.  It was fantastic. We finally arrived at the mountain at around 9am.  There, we were given our options for making it to the top: by foot, horseback or motorcycle. They offered some coca leaves to stuff into our cheek to combat potential altitude sickness. I had originally planned to ride horses to the top, but our guides recommended a quick ride to the top on a motorcycle available at the same price as a horse. 

There was a literal squadron of villagers waiting on motorcycles to carry tourists to the top.  To save time we chose this route. In 20 minutes we were at the top, thus having the summit somewhat to ourselves. It was a wise move. Riding a motorcycle was a new experience for my kids and we were able to capture all the views without a million people at the top. We awed at the snow capped mountains in the distance and cute llamas scattered at various points ready for a photo op. I had wondered what the colors would look like in person and they didn’t disappoint.  

We spent about thirty minutes exploring, taking pics, drinking hot chocolate and eating alpaca chicharrón before heading back to the bus on motorcycle. Our guide remarked that “almost all of us” had made it to the top.  Carefully consider whether you want to walk the hour and a half it takes to reach the summit which stands at over 17,000 ft or 5,000 meters. For me, it was well worth the extra $25 per person to make the ascent as painless as possible, but most people do walk.

We stopped for a late afternoon lunch at the same outpost where we had eaten breakfast, filling up on ají de gallina, chips and pico, soups and rice. Upon returning to Cusco, we took long naps before heading out into the city to grab some dinner.  

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DAY 4 CUSCO

By this point, my kids and I had had brutally 4 brutally early days and I knew that my itinerary was wearing them out.  In the interest of keeping everyone happy, I decided to cancel our trip to the Sacred Valley. That was another 10 hour excursion and there was still plenty to explore in Cusco.  It was truly one of the best decisions I could have made.  We slept until about 9 and headed into town where we explored at a leisurely pace stopping for snacks and shopping for jewelry.  We sought out the famous 12 angled stone which is a testament to Incan stonework. The original Incan walls of the historic city are a true marvel with irregular, perfectly smooth stones fitting together like pieces of a puzzle–no mortar required.

We continued on past the Plaza Mayor where we stopped to check out the mountain music of the camelid festival before making our way to Organika for one of the best meals of the trip. This farm to table restaurant actually has two locations in town. I preferred this one that we ate at for lunch as the menu was a little different.  I ordered a grilled chicken salad which was definitely a stand out.  It came with a delicious berry vinaigrette, beautiful vegetables and fresh flower garnish.  All of the ingredients are harvested at their farm about an hour from Cusco. It was a welcome change from the fried foods and rice and beans of Panama.

After lunch we ventured out into the streets toward the Sapantiana Aqueduct built by the Jesuits between the 17th and 18th centuries not far from the picturesque neighborhood of San Blas. As you walk through Cusco, you’ll see locals dressed in traditional clothes with baby animals to pose for a picture.  I can assure you that you will only be able to “sneak a picture” from behind.  As I raised my phone to snap a photo from across the street, 2 girls rushed us with a lamb, shoving it into my son’s arms. They require tips of course, so make sure you have soles on hand: it’s how they make a living.

The aqueduct was photo worthy for sure, but the San Blas barrio is an instagrammar’s dream. With white stucco homes, red tiled roofs, rainbow flags and colorful geraniums and succulents lining the streets, it’s the perfect backdrop for an afternoon photoshoot. We stopped for an ice cream and made friends with local dogs and cats before continuing on to our final stop of the day: San Cristobal Mirador sitting atop the hillside with a fabulous city view. 

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DAY 5 CUSCO TO MACHU PICCHU

PRO TIP: I BOUGHT MY TICKETS TO MACHU PICCHU 9 MONTHS IN ADVANCE AND PLANNED THE ENTIRE TRIP AROUND IT

We began our trip toward Machu Picchu early in the morning starting from the Inca Rail train Station around 8am.  We checked in at the counter and were assigned a bus number.  After about 30 minutes, were were on our way to Ollantaytambo. The two hour drive into the Peruvian countryside was lovely passing by remote villages and marveling at distant mountains.  

Arriving at the bustling village of Ollantaytambo was not what I expected at all.  Peru does a wonderful job at promoting its tourist locations. The waiting area was really lovely and clean, offering free wi-fi and a really nice snack bar with coffee, teas and cocktails.  We grabbed some food and waited to board for our final leg of the journey. We were a little confused about how we were going to know when to head toward the train.  There are women who carry tall, decorative posts with letters that will take you down to the tracks when your letter is called.  

Walking down the street to the tracks was really exciting.  The workers from Inca Rail danced and played Andean music, getting us in the stoked for this once-in-a-lifetime adventure.  We opted for the cheapest class on the train and still were able to order food and drink if we wanted as well as see a performance. The entertainment was really cool, but the scenery out our window was even cooler. I couldn’t take my eyes off of the gorgeous snow capped Andes.  I wanted to make sure I never forgot those views.

We arrived at the town of Machu Picchu formerly known as Aguas Calientes at around 1pm.  Our Airbnb host had kindly offered to meet us at the train station to show us our accommodations. They were basic, but had everything we needed: mainly a clean room in a great location. She asked us if we wanted to arrange for a guide to accompany us to Machu Picchu. The more I thought about it, the more I thought it would be worth it. After all, after coming all this way, I wanted to understand exactly what I was looking at. For $20 per person, I decided to add the tour.

PRO TIP: THERE ARE SEVERAL “ROUTES” AROUND MACHU PICCHU. ROUTES 1 & 2 WILL GIVE YOU THOSE EPIC VIEWS FROM THE TOP. BOOK EARLY TO MAKE SURE THEY’RE NOT SOLD OUT.

After getting settled into our room, we headed into town for some Mexican food and good times with the sweetest restaurant kitties of the trip. After a couple BOGO mojitos and a plate full of food, we checked out another beautiful market buying stones, bags, magnets and t-shirts.  

Aguas Calientes means “hot waters” in Spanish. The town was originally named for the hot springs that bubble up out of the mountains. We have never actually, bathed in a hot spring, so we added it to the list.  With multiple pools at varying temperatures, we opted for the one with water at about 93 degrees F. It was somewhat murky, mineral water, but it felt nice.  It was the closest thing to a real soak in a bath that I’ve had since moving to Panama. 

Upon our arrival, our Airbnb host gave us a card for Chullos restaurant good for free pisco sours. After wandering the town for quite a while, we ended up choosing this spot for what ended up being everyone’s favorite meal of the trip much to my surprise.  The pisco sours were THE best that we had in all of Peru and the pastas we ordered were amazing. It’s one of those meals I still think about even after one year. It really hit the spot and the environment was so lovely and warm.

WHERE TO STAY IN MACHU PICCHU

• ***Tunki Hause Machupicchu This spot has everything you need for your Machu Picchu visit. Clean rooms, freshly made breakfast and conveniently located steps away from Machu Picchu transportation.
• ***Rockrivers Machu Picchu Guests love the friendly staff, fluffy towels, yummy breakfast situated in the perfect sport for transfers to Mach Picchu.
• ****Tierra Viva Machu Picchu Serene riverfront hotel wows travelers with calming river sounds, beautiful mountain views and outstanding room service.

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DAY 6 MACHU PICCHU

We woke up early to wait for our guide who was scheduled to meet us at the hotel around 8am.  He came right on time and led us to the long line waiting to board buses bound for Machu Picchu. I am really glad we had him to help us, because I was unclear about where we were supposed to go to start our journey. He was very kind, knowledgeable and professional–worth every penny.

The scenery on the way to the ruins was obviously unparalleled and again I spent much of the trip trying to burn it all onto my brain. When we arrived at the archaeological site, we took a quick bathroom break before heading toward the ruins with our guide. As we explored the ruins and took in the magnificent views, our guide explained the significance of the Sun and Condor temples, the niched out walls, the processes by which the Inca carved their perfect stones and the evidence of human sacrifice found nearby. In essence, he brought this magnificent place to life.

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Walking around Machu Picchu was relatively easy from a physical fitness standpoint. We walked at a pretty leisurely pace taking photos and chatting with our guide. In total, we spent about 3 hours at Machu Picchu before returning on the bus back down to Aguas Calientes to catch our train to Cusco. We made it with about 45 minutes to spare grabbing a snack at the station and chilling with our new orange cat friend.

We returned late in the day to Cusco, as there was a freak accident in transit. A car attempted to cross the railroad tracks, but was hit by our Inca Rail train just shy of the Ollantaytambo station. Fortunately, nobody was hurt, but it did delay our arrival in Cusco by an hour or so. My daughter and I headed out for a delicious pizza and pasta dinner at La Bodega 138 for our last night in Cusco. We soaked up the atmosphere of this beautiful mountain town and talked about how much we love Peru and hoped to come back someday soon.

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DAY 7 CUSCO TO LAKE TITICACA

Today, it was time to head south to the highest navigable lake in the world, Lake Titicaca. I booked a double-decker bus ride through VIP Bus by Transzela from Cusco to Puno, a nearby town.  Make sure you have screenshots, digital images or a hard copy of your tickets. The attendant at the bus station insisted on acting like she couldn’t find our reservation.  The journey was scheduled to take about 8 hours to complete. However, there was some sort of delay leaving the station, so they eliminated our stop in the middle of the trip for lunch in order to make it on time.  Because of this, It’s a really good idea to pack something for the journey. I’ve learned that being prepared for the unexpected is always wise traveling in Latin America.

We arrived in Puno around 5pm and were desperate for some food.  I was not really impressed with what little we saw of Puno: it was very crowded and just didn’t have a nice vibe.  We made our way to Tulipans restaurant to grab some lomo saltado and pizza. Unfortunately, the pizza was literally the worst pizza I have ever had in my life in spite of relatively good reviews. The lomo they brought to replace my pizza was passable as something to eat. It just was not my favorite.

After our dinner, we grabbed a taxi to meet our Airbnb host, Henry, at the specified dock. We made our way toward our floating Uro navigating the reeds, drifting by little, dimly lit markets and homes, trying to catch glimpses of lake life.  It was kind of a surreal experience lake gazing at the milky way above in such a unique place. We settled in for a really cold night in our basic one room cabin.

PRO TIP: IF YOU VISIT DURING WINTER MONTHS, JUNE, JULY AND AUGUST, MAKE SURE TO PACK WARM CLOTHES.

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DAY 8 LAKE TITICACA & TAQUILE ISLAND

Waking up on Lake Titicaca was so different. Gazing out at the floating Uros or islands, was unlike anything I’ve ever seen. Each island was its own little world. Some islands were home to just one family, while others were home to a few. The uros are made of reeds gathered from the lake, piled high and replaced every 7-10 days. It is essential to keep the islands at a constant 3 meteres thick.

We had organized a full day tour of the lake through our Airbnb host. Admittedly, I rushed this part of the planning and thought we were doing a tour of the nearby islands. Instead we ended up just a stone’s throw from Bolivia on Taquile Island. In the end, it was really lovely. The weather was beautiful, the scenery was gorgeous and the hike was great exercise. 

As we made our way around the island, we were really lucky to meet some of the locals there on the island who shared their culture: music, dance, textiles and some fascinating home remedies made from local plants.  We ate a delicious lunch made with fresh ingredients like quinoa, fish, eggs, rice and something very similar to fry bread.

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In the afternoon, we made the long journey across the lake back to our Airbnb. That night, our host’s wife made us dinner. We had requested chicken with rice. After dinner, we played on our phones and warmed up under ½ inch thick blankets and prepped for our early morning journey to Juliaca to catch our flight back to Lima. 

WHERE TO STAY IN LAKE TITICACA

• **Mosoq Inn This in town hotel gets great reviews from travelers who love modern amenities at an affordable price on the lake. The friendly staff and reliable services make this hotel a win.
• ***Casitas del Titicaca Peru WOW! A truly unique, once-in-a-lifetime experience on Lake Titicaca. This cabin set on a floating Uro in the the middle of Lake Titicaca is surprisingly modern with a beautifully appointed interior. Hosts cater to your needs
• ****GHL Hotel Lago Titicaca Lakeside hotel with beautiful accommodations and spectacular views. Consistently praised for delicious buffet breakfast, cleanliness and super-friendly staff.

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DAY 9 LAKE TITICACA TO LIMA

We hopped in our boat at 5:30 am to make our way to the dock where a taxi was waiting to take us to Juliaca. We covered our faces with thick wool blankets in the frigid air. Ice cracked under the boat as we cut through the lake. The sun began to rise revealing birds darting across the reeds and neighbors just starting their day on the water.

We arrived back in Lima at around 10:30 a.m. and were able to check in early at our Airbnb.  It was a really nice 2 bedroom apartment in the trendy neighborhood of Barranco. This area was much nicer than the area where we stayed on our first night.  It’s close to bars, restaurants, retailers and parks.  After we freshened up, we headed to Larcomar, an outdoor mall on the coast, where we ate lunch outside at Tanta. This is a very popular chain restaurant in Lima with a few locations around town including the airport. The food is really yummy and the portions are hefty.

From there, we continued along the cliffs heading down to El Parque del Amor. This oceanside park features Gaudi-esque mosaic seating and walls with peepholes out onto the Pacific. In the distance we could see daredevils paragliding andsurfers waiting for the perfect wave.

We explored Parque Kennedy which is famous for its adorable, resident cats or “michis” as they are known in Latin America. The park was alive with people that day. There were locals salsa-ing in some sort of dance pit, street vendors selling churros and pastries, and live alternative music at the far end of the park.

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DAY 10 LIMA

On our final day in Peru, Isabel and I grabbed an Uber and headed toward Plaza Mayor to witness the changing of the guard at El Palacio del Gobierno. We arrived in plenty of time at 11:45am and began to wait for the 12pm show. As luck would have it, the ceremony just didn’t happen. We have no idea why. Afterwards, we asked a local for directions to Chinatown where we ate a super-tasty, super-cheap lunch. We had a ton of food for about $11.

Make sure you make time to visit the ruins of Huaca Pucllana in the Miraflores area of Lima. I would honestly prioritize this over the changing of the guard. This impressive pyramid has seven layers. Construction dates back to around 500 A.D. This site served as an administrative and ceremonial center in Lima. Research suggests that important ceremonies and sacrifices took place here. The site is still under excavation as archaeologists work to uncover more of the mysteries of this ancient site.

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In the afternoon, we browsed markets for last minute souvenirs and chilled in cafes as we wound down our trip of a lifetime. At night, we headed out for one last delicious dinner, cocktails and dancing. We ended up near our Airbnb in the Barranco district at Isolina Taberna Peruana. This eatery serves beautifully plated, elevated Peruvian cuisine with classics like lomo saltado, ceviche and sanchocado. It’s consistently rated one of the best restaurants in Lima, currently at number 12.

After dinner, we headed to Ayahuasca in search of one last pisco sour before doing for a little dancing. This eclectic bar is a meticulously remodeled 19th century mansion that combines old with new, featuring beautiful, original chandeliers and dark woodwork combined with an updated dining area. The longer we stayed, the more the party vibe amped up with awesome music and really friendly staff. After a couple of strong drinks, we headed out to find a club for a little salsa action.

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While this itinerary packs in many of Peru’s highlights, don’t be afraid to slow down and immerse yourself in the moment. Chat with locals, sample street food you’ve never heard of, or simply sit and take in the views that have captivated travelers for centuries. Peru’s magic lies not just in its world-famous attractions but in the unexpected discoveries you’ll make along the way.

What places are on your Peruvian bucket list? Drop a comment below.