9 EPIC DAYS IN GUATEMALA
Guatemala is a dream come true, offering an incredible mix of ancient Mayan ruins, colonial architecture, vibrant indigenous cultures, and stunning natural landscapes. Did you know that Guatemala is home to 37 volcanoes, with three of them still active? This adventure stops at some of the country’s most iconic destinations – from the metropolitan buzz of Guatemala City to the mystical Mayan pyramids of Tikal, the colonial charm of Antigua, and the serene beauty of Lake Atitlan. I’ve designed this itinerary to give you the perfect balance of cultural immersion, historical exploration, and natural beauty. My guide to 9 epic days in Guatemala will have you planning your next trip before you board your return flight.
DAY 1 GUATEMALA CITY
I took an early morning Copa flight out of Panama City and arrived in Guatemala City just 2 hours and 15 minutes later. That meant I had the whole day to explore Ciudad de Guatemala. Actually, the adventure had already begun before my plane even landed. The volcanoes I saw from my window seat as we flew over Nicaragua and Guatemala truly blew my mind. It was so unexpected seeing volcanoes smoking and rising high up over the clouds.
When I landed at Aurora International Airport, I grabbed my first quetzales from the ATM outside of the airport in the parking lot at the end of the pedestrian crossing and called my Uber. In about 20 minutes, I was checking into my charming Airbnb with beautiful outdoor seating, exotic tropical plants and a lovely pool.
My first stop was Museo Popol Vuh located on the Universidad Francisco Marroquin campus. This museum has been on my list for years as it houses an impressive collection of Mayan artifacts dating as far back as 9000 BC. Among them: funerary urns, decorative pottery, sculptures depicting jungle animals turned deities and the sacred text or Popul Vuh which narrates the creation story. I wandered the galleries marveling at everything from detailed versions of cyclical calendars to the ancient origins of tamales. This museum was compact, but jam-packed with fascinating history.
I was also able to squeeze in a visit to Museo Ixchel del Traje Indigena. Guatemala is known for its textiles and this museum is a fascinating look at the variations in clothing traditions throughout country. It was so interesting to read about the impact that the arrival of the Spanish and catholicism not just on the way indigenous peoples dressed, but also how dispersed throughout the country. I loved learning about regional huipils, the weaving and dying process as well as the bright colors that are so emblematic of Guatemalan culture.
PRO TIP: MUSEUM HOURS ARE M-F 9-5 AND SATURDAY 9-1.
These two museums are rather small and one can see everything in less than an hour per museum. Afterwards, I wandered out onto the campus to look for a bite to eat. I didn´t find any food, but the campus was beautiful. There were enormous native plants, ponds and beautiful flowering jacaranda trees. If you have a little extra time, definitely take a wallk here.
Next, I took an Uber toward Plaza de la Constitucion to check out the Metropolitan Cathedral and the action downtown. My driver dropped me off at the Mercado Central as I was very hungry and wanted to try some affordable local food. I went downstairs into a basement area which was full of vendors selling fruits, vegetables, flowers and typical Guatemalan foods like pepian, chiles rellenos and grilled chicken. I decided on the mix of chicken and beef pepian, the national dish, and added a Gallo beer to wash it all down. The rich stew was delicious, served up over rice and a side of tortillas with delicious salsas on the side. As I ate as a small group of musicians belted out some Guatemalan hits that had everyone singing along.
After a quick look around the market I headed toward the main square. In true Freya fashion, I managed to attract a former San Quentin inmate, who had been deported to his homeland, for a weird chat about violence against women before I slipped away into the crowd that had amassed for International Women’s Day. It was a novel experience celebrating a day like this in a foreign country. Hundreds of twenty-somethings showed up with posters calling out machismo, substandard healthcare and the war in the Gaza Strip. Many women proceeded to spray paint slogans around the square against oppression which were quickly cleaned up later in the day.
After the protest, I made my rounds through the cathedral and down the main thoroughfare, La Sexta, where locals go to shop and eat. The food here is so fresh and delicious. There was a really nice selection of bakeries and pubs offering pizza, chicken, mango cups and traditional Guatemalan dishes. I stayed pretty full from my enormous lunch and opted to grab a couple slices of pizza to take home for dinner before heading farther down the street.
I continued exploring until about 5pm and decided I’d call it a night since I had an early flight and wasn’t sure if I should stay in the city alone after dark. Before leaving, I stumbled upon a park where I watched an impromptu street performance. In the end, I had originally been told to just skip Guatemala City and head straight to Antigua, because it’s “unsafe,” but I had a really great day and I felt safe. Nobody bothered me and I managed to do all the things that I planned to do and more.
DAY 2 GUATEMALA CITY TO FLORES
I woke up very early and headed back to the airport to catch a TAG Airlines flight to the small town of Flores on Lago de Petén. This town is the jumping off point for visiting Parque Nacional Tikal. I arrived at my room at, Posada Don Julio, in San Miguel across the lake. It’s highly rated, but it felt like an oven with no air conditioning, so check accommodations carefully. I freshened up and headed out to look for some food and price kayaks. I had a lakeside room booked and not much of a plan to be honest. Kayaking or taking a hike to the Mirador de Canek sounded like good options. There is also a secluded beach on the lake past the mirador, Playa Chechenal Petén.
A local man started chatting me up and offered me a beer and directions to the mirador or viewpoint at the top of the mountain. The trail is neither clearly advertised nor marked, but it´s not too difficult to find if you ask a local. I trekked up the hill with a new, cold bottle of water in hand and made it to the beautiful lookout where several young kids were smoking weed on the observation deck. It was so incredibly hot here in contrast to the lovely cool weather I had encountered in the capital. I took a few pictures and headed back down to the lakeside.
Upon returning to town, I met up with my new buddy and took him up on two Gallo lagers, because I was going to buy one anyway. I chatted with him and the American dads from the water taxi for a while about life in America and abroad. When my buddy got a little weird, I headed back to my hotel. It was so brutally hot, I decided to take a nap for a little while before heading into town for dinner.
PRO TIP: BRING SUNSCREEN AND INSECT REPELLENT THAT CAN TRAVEL ON THE PLANE. YOU’LL NEED IT ON THE LAKE.
I crossed the lake back into town around 4:30. The lake views were really beautiful as the sun became more golden. I watched kayakers splash each other and water taxis cruising past. When I arrived on the island, I headed toward the church, the highest point on the island. I had read about a fantastic taco stand here in the square and I was planning on loading up on the best “Mexican food” I could find on this trip, since it’s very lacking in Panama. This was such a find! Oh my goodness! This woman could cook and I couldn’t believe all the food I got for $3.75: one taco, one burrito, one tostada and a fresh watermelon juice with loads of hot sauce. Don’t let the rudimentary looks of it scare you. It was heaven and very popular.
Afterwards, I wandered down to the ring road in search of a bar with a view of the sunset. I found Sky Bar and marched up the stairs to have a drink with my sunset. As I sat drinking mojito number one of the BOGO deal, the 2 Minnesotans I kept running into came in looking for a place to sit. They sat down with me and we talked about the state of the world as one of the most spectacular sunsets I’ve seen in ages unfolded before us. I highly recommend one of these lakeside rooftops bar for moments like this.
It was an early night for me as I had to be at the bus for Tikal at 4:30am.
DAY 3 TIKAL NATIONAL PARK
I remember sleeping relatively well as I had nothing to do in my accommodations apart from deleting photos. My booking.com host had arranged for a boat to pick me up in the wee hours of the morning at 4:10am. It was tricky walking across the wooden walkways in the dark. As we crossed the lake to the “Yo Amo Peten” sign, the captain told me about a lake tour that he could possibly do with me in the afternoon when I returned: a visit to the ARCAS animal rescue, Jorge’s rope swing and a private beach. I left that plan up in the air as I had no real idea what time we’d return, but it sounded great for around $25.
I booked my early morning tour to Tikal through Get Your Guide. The tour was run very professionally from start to finish. They were kind enough to stop at a really nice convenience store with an ATM, so we could get cash for the Tikal National Park ticket, which had to be purchased on site. Make sure you bring your passport or a photo. The ride out the the park took longer than I expected, but we made it by about 7:15am. We were given 30 minutes to grab some breakfast at our own expense before we continued on to the site. Our group numbered about 30 people and we were broken into 2 smaller groups by language. I started with the Spanish group and switched to English as I liked their faster pace better.
The tour was a fascinating look at a lost, ancient world only uncovered in 1848. Over the centuries, thick jungle vegetation had grown up around the massive ruins. This “mundo perdido” or “lost world,” sat untouched for centuries after its inhabitants fled all of sudden around 900 AD. Archaeologists can only theorize as to why: famine, change in climate or warfare. Nobody really knows for sure. What was left behind is an impressive complex of temples and dwellings estimated at 3,000 structures where 100,000 people once lived and thrived. Our guide brought the site to life probing our tourist minds with hypotheticals, citing religious practices, giving us naturalist insights and narrating how Mayan scholars who sought to explain the universe.
We wandered the site for several hours, taking pics, chatting with other sightseers, spotting monkeys and parrots, and climbing historic temples. It was truly stunning. We wrapped up the tour around noon and headed back toward Flores arriving around 2:30. Upon our arrival to town, the drizzle had turned to pretty heavy rain which made the temperature much more manageable than the prior day. Back in the room, I spent the day napping after a 3am wake up time. It was soooo much cooler than it had been the day before–like night and day.
I headed back into town to get some freshly made guac and chips from Sky Bar and pick up another delicious fresh juice from the taco stand. I still miss that place.
DAY 4 FLORES TO ANTIGUA
Today was a full on travel day. I recommend leaving on an earlier flight out of Flores as I had pretty much run out of things to do in the tiny town. After grabbing some food from my favorite taco lady, I headed back to Guatemala City around 2pm. I arrived within the hour and stationed myself outside of Cafe Barreto at the airport to wait for my shuttle to Antigua that I had arranged through Guatego, Atitrans shuttle.
My driver, Jorge, arrived right on time and we headed out of Guatemala City at 4:30. I was the only passenger in the shuttle, so I sat up front and he gave me some great suggestions about places to eat in Antigua and the best times to do certain tours. Chatting with him, the 2 hour drive out to Antigua flew right by.
I arrived after dark, but set out to explore anyway after checking into Casa ELA,. Antigua is truly beautiful. The rainbow colored houses, cobblestone streets and volcano views were really perfection. It was so clean and the weather was amazing.
DAY 5 ANTIGUA
I scheduled my Guruwalk for 9am in the Parque Central by the fountain. These free walks are the best way to familiarize yourself with your new city. Every single guide I have ever had has been phenomenal, so please be kind and give them a nice tip of $15-$20. This walk was a look at Antigua since its founding that took us to ruins of centuries old cathedrals, architectural styles, boho chic coffee shops, the Arch of Santa Catalina, tortillerias and ancient laundromats. The tours are always full of valuable information, not just from a historical and cultural standpoint, but the guides always offer valuable suggestions for restaurants, free art exhibits, hidden museums, awesome city views and the best places for nightlife.
After my walking tour wrapped up, I headed to El Riconcito Antigueño that both the guide and shuttle driver suggested for a delicious traditional meal. The menu features local favorites like grilled chicken, chiles rellenos, carne guidsada and pepian with a side of amazing roasted potatoes and a juice with a refill all for less than five dollars.
After lunch, I spent some time checking out Mercado Central at the end of town looking for textile gifts: I got a great deal on backpacks, aprons, bags and shorts made of beautiful corte. With my backpack full, I headed to Iglesia de la Merced where I paid $5 to check out the city view from the rooftop. The panorama from the roof of the church was lovely looking over tiled the weathered rooftops and pastel city below. Later, I took a little siesta in my room to freshen up before heading to the far end of town to walk up the mirador, Cerro de la Cruz.
“Cross Hill” was a really easy walk and the view was pretty cool, however, it was very smoky or hazy because of historic eruptions happening at Volcan Acatenango. It’s a really popular spot for locals who played music, engaged in tasteful PDA and took naps on the numerous benches. I made my way down the hillside for happy hour and golden hour at Cafe Sky. I checked out the rooftop at where I met some ESL teachers who were really interesting and in the process of exploring their next options for their nomadic lives. Later I popped into the Antigua Brewing Company for a Shute Pale Ale and some live rock ‘n roll before heading back to my room. It was a really nice vibe and a great way to end a super- busy day.
DAY 6 PACAYA VOLCANO
I chose the afternoon volcano hike, so I had the morning free. I headed into town to take more pictures and grab a delicious Salvadorean lunch before making my way to the Cafe La Parada where I waited for my shuttle. The group departed at 2pm for the drive to Pacaya. The journey out to the volcano was about an hour and a half. As the elevation increased, so did the clouds. I should have listened to the Guatego shuttle driver when he told me that it’s best to do the morning hike on the volcanoes. It was pretty clear that there weren’t going to be any spectacular views after the clouds had gathered all afternoon.
When we arrived at Pacaya National Park, there were loads of local children rushing the bus to offer hiking sticks for $10. They were really sweet, but be prepared to tell them “no” about a million times–unless you want one of course. We paid our fee of 100 quetzales, about $13.00, for admission to the trail, in addition to the $29 tour, got some instructions from our guide and set out to climb. Our group had 25 people, so there were people at varying levels of fitness. All along the way, young boys were offering the ladies horses in case they decided to give up. They asked me many times, but I was one of the first ones to make it to the top. It was not an easy trail, but it’s reportedly the easiest of the volcano hikes. In the end, three women opted for a horse.
When we finally made it to the top, there wasn’t much to see except grey, eerie clouds. We walked down to the lava field explored heat vents, chatted with cute doggies and “roasted” marshmallows on a heat vent. Even though it wasn’t the view we came for, everyone enjoyed the experience. It was really other-worldly.
Just as night fell, we boarded our bus and headed back to Antigua. We got back to town around 8 and I headed straight for the square, where I grabbed a delicious meal at the taco cart outside of La Iglesia de la Merced. The food choices here are incredible. Everything is so fresh and delicious with tons of delicious grilled meats, flavorful salsas and even pupusas that are so affordable.
DAY 7 ANTIGUA TO LAKE ATITLAN
After another delicious lunch of tostadas topped with shredded pork and a freshly squeezed limeade outside the cathedral, I met my shuttle to Lake Atitlan at the far end of town at noon. I chatted with several travelers during the 2 and a half hour journey to the town of Panajachel. When I arrived, I discovered that my Airbnb was quite far from the drop off point in town. In fact, every time I made the20 minute trek to and from town, I felt like I was getting lost. It was a really lovely place though–the nicest of the trip. It was perched high on a hilltop and had a beautiful garden, hammocks for lounging and cute little pets.
After getting settled into my room and showering, I asked about good places to get some food. They recommended Circus Bar for pizza. The bar was a cool spot with a lot of character in the business district of Panajachel. It had a very traditional pizzeria feel and a friendly staff. The pizza was okay, but I really liked the new beer I tried, Victoria. I chatted with the bartender and another customer and headed back to my hotel for an early night.
DAY 8 SAN JUAN LA LAGUNA
Lake Atitlan is the deepest lake in Central America. The volcanic lake formed after the eruption of a super-volcano 84,000 years ago. Its vivid blue waters are surrounded by three volcanoes: San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlán. The lake is also surrounded by 11 unique towns each with their own vibe. Because my time was somewhat limited, I chose to visit two: Panajachel, the gateway to Lake Atitán and the closest to Antigua, and San Juan La Laguna, an explosion of color and indigenous culture.
Getting to San Juan La Laguna was so memorable. I walked down to the dock in town and paid my 25 quetzales–around $3.25–for the 45 minute ride around the shores of the lake. Our boat stopped at numerous hotels and different docks along the way picking up and dropping off. The scenery was jaw-droppingly gorgeous.
Disembarking at the dock on San Juan La Laguna, the festive atmosphere is palpable. Marimba bands greeted visitors with their tropical melodies. Heading up the main street, is a feast for the eyes with multicolored textiles, souvenir shops and a canopy of rainbow colored-umbrellas. After snapping a million pics of the umbrellas and characteristic tuk-tuks, I set off to find a kayak rental place. My daughter inspired me on her trip last year to kayak in this gorgeous spot. I ended up at Casa Argentina where I rented a very clunky fiberglass kayak for the equivalent of $15. I showed my ID and headed off to the shore with a life jacket and oar.
After about 10 minutes of getting myself situated and dragging the ton weight kayak out into the water, I was off with a picnic lunch I had packed of quesadillas and Gatorade. I paddled between San Juan and San Pedro marveling at the scenery, watching kids play in the water and checking out the profile of Indian Nose.
After about an hour of kayaking, I continued exploring the town. I had several things on my list that I wanted to check off: chocolate, honey and textiles just to name a few.
Xunah Kaab, was challenging to find, but worth the visit. Xunah Kaab produces local honey with very unique native bees. This family operation has been passed on for generations now offers tours to the public. You should either make whatever donation you can or buy a product in their store. A young man working there greeted me at the gate and guided me around the small garden filled with interesting plants and small wooden boxes where tiny bees produced honey in small quantities. The smallest colony would manage to produce just over a liter of honey per year. That’s pretty incredible and the honey is expensive! At the end of our quick tour, I got to sample any of the honeys that I wanted based on their flavor profiles. It was really cool, but I was definitely ready for some chocolate.
I walked back toward the main part of town where I hunted down a chocolate experience. I ended up at Licor Marrón for a free demonstration–available in English or Spanish. The guide took a handful of cacao beans and toasted them for a few minutes shaking them back and forth in a pan. When the were finally ready, she crumbled a few in her hand to show me what the insides looked like and offered me a taste. Afterwards she got started rolling the beans out on a large stone mashing it into a thick paste that smelled incredible. Then I browsed around the shop looking at all of the varieties of chocolate. I grabbed a few for my boyfriend and I to taste when I got home to Panama.
On the other side of the chocolate shop, there was a small garden sown with plants and herbs that have medicinal properties, Plantas Medicinales Mayab. I popped in for a look. It was a tiny place that offered natural, herbal products made by local women using traditional recipes. There were soaps, shampoos and creams all with interesting smells. You can feel good about purchasing a product here, because the money goes back to the woman who made it, thus empowering her and her family economically and socially.
Last, but not least was a stop at the San Juan Women’s Weaving Cooperative, NOMA. This collective of Mayan women weavers represents a true feminist movement in this tiny Guatemalan town. The organization has been around for 20 years with the goal of improving women’s economic conditions and quality of life for each weaver and her family. The women practice traditional backstrap weaving using locally-sourced cotton and natural dyes that produce a beautiful and sustainable, high quality product.
After a full day of exploring San Juan La Laguna, I headed back to Panajachel where I found a really popular viewpoint to wait for the sunset before grabbing a snack to take back to my hotel.
DAY 9 ANTIGUA
This was the final day of this beautiful vacation. To be honest, I could have kept going and going as Guatemala has so much to discover. I reluctantly packed my bag and walked my last walk down the hill to catch my shuttle outside of Selina back to Antigua. After all, there was going to be an lenten procession arriving to town in the afternoon and that’s pretty special.
Every Sunday of lent, the faithful parade through Antigua lighting incense, playing solemn music and hoisting enormous wooden floats with scenes from the Passion of Christ. Townspeople also lay out the beautiful, brightly colored sawdust alfombras giving new life to these ancient cobblestone streets. It is truly a sight to behold. I had snapped a picture of my parade route on my Guruwalk and decided to station myself in front of St. Catherine’s Arch, El Arco de Santa Catalina for a relly cool photo op. I’m not a religious person, but it was an awesome sight to witness. It was quite beautiful and so many townspeople were active participants. I was really fortunate to be able to rework my plan to see this world-renowned event. If you are in Antigua on a Sunday during lent, make sure not to miss it.
Guatemala, is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever been to. My words and pictures don’t do it justice, because there is something about it that is just magical. The unforgettable blend of ancient history, colonial charm, indigenous culture, and natural wonders are just the tip of the iceberg. This may have been the first time I have visited Guatemala, but it will not be my last. I left many places unexplored, so I have a reason to return. Until next time.
Have you been to Guatemala? What should I add to my next itinerary? Comment below.