Old buildings in Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama.
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A COMPLETE GUIDE TO 4 DAYS IN PANAMA CITY, PANAMA

Before I made my home here, I actually visited Panama 4 times. Every time I fell more and more in love with this one-of-a-kind cosmopolitan Central American city. I put together this complete guide to 4 days in Panama City that will touch on the rich Spanish colonial history, take you to its world renowned canal and explore Panama’s natural beauty.

There is no shortage of accommodations here in Panama City: from high rise luxury hotels to charming accommodations in historic Casco Viejo, you can choose the vibe that’s right for you. I have stayed in both and if this is your first visit to Ciudad de Panama, I would personally recommend staying in or near Casco Viejo. There are numerous beautiful luxury hotels as well as Airbnbs that will put you within steps of many of the places that will be on your itinerary.

3 TOP DESTINATIONS

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A local bride in her dress Panama City
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Young newlyweds outside of Metropolitan Cathedral

DAY 1

MORNING WALK CASCO VIEJO

On your first full day in Panama City, head for the historic streets of Casco Viejo. This 400 year-old neighborhood is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its rich cultural legacy, cobblestone streets, and colorful architecture it’s a living testament to the cities storied past.

In fact, it wasn’t until my final trip that I actually decided to take a walking tour of Casco Viejo with a local guide and it was certainly time well spent. I stumbled upon a company online called guruwalk.com.  The company actually offers the tour for free and the guide earns tips. We started our tour at Plaza de la Independencia and meandered through the streets and oldest neighborhoods of the colonial settlement. It’s such a great way to get acquainted with the area. Furthermore, there is nothing this tour lacked: we learned about food, architectural styles, historic sites, indigenous art, politics and more. 5 stars!

MOLA MUSEUM

I cannot get enough of indigenous art. When I am traveling, I am always looking to learn about local crafts, their origins and the meanings behind the tradition, so that when I take them home, I feel connected to the piece and my experience. Here, in Panama, the Guna sell their striking molas that come every color of rainbow in markets throughout Casco Viejo. The process of making a beautiful mola is explained in depth at Museo de la Mola. You will be amazed at the painstaking attention to detail required to create one of these works of art. Most visitors spend about 45 minutes in the museum which is free of charge. It is hands down my favorite museum here in PTY.

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PANAMA CANAL

At around 2:00 pm or so, I recommend heading over to the Panama Canal. Undoubtedly, the canal is Panama’s claim to fame, but it’s so much more than that. It is truly a mind-blowing engineering marvel with a fascinating history. The French began the canal 1881, losing many lives and going bankrupt in the process. It was ultimately completed by the US 33 years later in 1914. Today, the canal sees 40% of US shipping traffic pass through this waterway.

The Miraflores Locks Visitor Center is about 20 minutes away from the city via Uber.  It is recommended to go between 9am and 11:30am or 3pm and 5pm to see a ship passing through the locks.  Every time I have been, I’ve been lucky enough to see a ship.  Do not miss the IMAX movie narrated by Morgan Freeman. The movie makes up for what the museum is lacking, giving a fascinating overview of the canal’s beginnings and current day workings.

Ship passing through the Panama Canal
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Ship passing through the canal

PEDRO MANDINGA RUM BAR

If you have some time before dinner, I recommend a stop at Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar: Panama’s premier artisanal rum distillery.  Serving delicious mojitos, martinis and more at just $5 per cocktail until 6pm, I think it’s a must do here in the city. They have managed to create a very cozy atmosphere that evokes Panama City of years gone by, with deep mahogany paneling and floral accents. I could spend a lot of time here, but there are more sights to see.

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ROOFTOP DINNER

Finally, it’s time to head back to your accommodations to to freshen up for dinner. Nothing beats a rooftop restaurant here when the weather is lovely. A few of my picks in Casco Viejo are: LaZotea, Casa Casco and Tantalo. All of these restaurants offer outstanding food, gorgeous views and delicious cocktails. Stay later for music.

Panama City views from LaZotea rooftop.
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DAY 2

ECOTOUR

After a busy first day in the city, I recommend a 180 degree change of pace heading to Monkey Island and the Embera Village in Lake Gatun in the canal zone. I have done 2 different versions of this tour and they are both phenomenal, informative and highly entertaining. Being on the waters of the Panama Canal is so fun: watching enormous freight ships pass by dwarfing your little boat, looking for monkeys and other wildlife. I have seen monkeys, crocodiles, coyotes, bats and even a capybara.

MONKEY ISLAND

Many of the monkeys, though native to Panama, are not native to these particular islands in the lake. Years ago an American scientist rescued and rehomed their monkey ancestors. It wasn’t unheard of for local families to keep the monkeys as pets. As the monkeys hit their teenage years, they often became too hard to handle resulting in them often being kept chained or in cages–hence their rescue.  Now, they have formed their own family groups on these small islands that dot the lake. The guides are very well-trained and know where to find the white faced capuchins, Geoffroy’s tamarin and howler monkeys.

Howler monkey in Panama
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Howler monkeys are just one of the three types of monkeys that you can see on the Monkey Island tour.
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Tourists feed white-faced capuchins

EMBERÁ-WOUNAAN VILLAGE

I was very pleasantly surprised with the visit to the indigenous village as I have a great interest and respect for native cultures. Similarly, the guides are very knowledgeable of the Emberá-Wounaan culture and history giving in-depth explanations of their way of life as well as answering numerous questions about family relationships, political systems, food and dress. Meeting and talking with indigenous people in Panama was certainly not something I ever thought I’d have an opportunity to do.  It was really outstanding. 

There are many local companies offering these tours on Get Your Guide. I highly recommend New Leaf Panama. Tereza is a phenomenal local guide who grew up in the Canal Zone and she is a wealth of information.

Emberá  mother and her sweet baby
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Emberá-Wounaan mother and her baby

FONDA LO QUE HAY

For dinner, I recommend a visit to Fonda Lo Que Hay.  Ask any local on the street where you should eat and they are bound to answer, “Fonda Lo Que Hay.” This restaurant consistently makes the list of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants serving elevated Panamanian cuisine.  Here, the menu changes according to what’s available, or as its name says, “what there is.” Staples on the menu range from fried chicken to pasta, clams to octopus–all executed and presented perfectly. My daughter and I give four thumbs up for their fried chicken and mojitos.

Fonda Lo Que Hay in Panama City, Panama
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An enormous crab waiting to be eaten at Fonda Lo Que Hay
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Fonda Lo Que Hay in Panama City, Panama
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DAY 3

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The tranquil side of Mogo Mogo

PEARL ISLANDS

Squeezing in a beach day while you’re here in the city is a must as there are some truly beautiful beaches  within reach. You could choose Isla Taboga, Islas San Blas or the Pearl Islands depending on what you are looking for. To strike the best balance between a beautiful beach and time constraints: I suggest the Pearl Islands as they are are rich in history and natural beauty and not too far. It’s a lovely way to spend a day snorkeling or soaking up the sun. 

Islas Perlas or the Pearl Islands are a great option because you can catch the ferry from the Amador Causeway in town and be on some of the most stunning beaches I’ve ever seen in about an hour and a half. Typically tours leave Isla 6am Flamenco between 7am and and arrive at Isla Contadora, Mogo Mogo or Bartolome in an hour and a half or two.  Tours are available through various vendors on viator.com.

Pro tip: If you choose to go to the Pearl Islands, bring good walking shoes or sandals and bug repellent. You’ll be glad you did.

You’ll probably return to the city late in the day. You might be tempted to order in after a long day in the sun.  You can always order UberEats or PedidosYa.  Some of my favorite finds for UberEats are:

Burgers: Fat Lady

Pizza: Viva la Pizza

Wings: Wing Zone

Asian/Sushi: Sugoi Caribbean Sushi

DAY 4

NATURE WALK

Start your day off with a walk up Ancon Hill, or Cerro Ancon, the highest point in Ciudad de Panama at 199m.  You’ll want to start early as the heat of the day becomes intense quickly and the animals become less active later in the morning. Here, if you keep your eyes and ears open, you may be able to spot tamarin monkeys, keel-billed toucans, two and three toed sloths and green and black poison dart frogs. Depending on your pace, the walk can be as little as an hour round trip. I tend to go more slowly, because I’m there just as much to see animals as I am to get a good workout.

You can reach Cerro Ancon via Uber, inDrive or Taxi. I recommend taking an Uber to the “Mi Pueblito” or “Quarry Heights” entrances. See directions and more about how to get there in my blog post “Reasons Why You Should Visit Ancon Hill.”

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Keel-billed toucans are a popular sight at Cerro Ancon

PANAMA VIEJO THE BEGINNINGS OF A CITY

From Cerro Ancon, you may be tempted to take another shower, LOL, or you might just keep going with the sweaty flow and head to the ruins of Panama Viejo. Panama Viejo is the first European settlement on the Pacific dating back to 1519 shortly after Balboa first laid his eyes on what he called el Mar del Sur, or the South Sea. 

From the road, this archeological site doesn’t really look like a whole lot, but on the inside the story that unfolds is actually quite fascinating.  Rich with pre-Columbian, Spanish and pirate history, the site tells the story of the beginnings and the end of this era in Panama’s history as well as displaying artifacts from pre-Columbian gold adornments to everyday items and religious relics used by the Spaniards.  Many people are surprised to learn that Captain Morgan of rum fame was, indeed, a real person who had a very profound effect on this city and her story.

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Ruins of Panama Viejo date to 1519

DIABLICOS

Finally, if you’re ending your stay in the city on a Friday or Saturday, I’d recommend dinner at Diablicos.  It’s a dinner party that packs a Panamanian punch.   Diablicos is a restaurant in Casco Viejo offering a variety of Panamanian dishes as well as pastas and salads, but the main attraction is the folkloric Panamanian music and dance. The restaurant has lively, interactive shows on Saturday nights at 7:30.   I suggest just popping into the restaurant to inquire about reservations beforehand.

Folkloric dancers at Diablicos restaurant, Panama City, Panama.
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I hope that you’ll love this city as much as I do. There are so many things to do and see here in Panama City. Safe travels! I’d love to hear from you! 

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