ESCUDO DE VERAGUAS: PANAMA’S HIDDEN PARADISE
Honestly, I cannot get enough of the little slice of heaven that is Bocas del Toro. Escudo de Veraguas is the crown jewel of all the hidden gems waiting to be discovered here. It is several different experiences all rolled into one: dramatic caves and coves, pristine beaches, extensive coral reefs and mangroves that shelter some fascinating creatures on the brink of extinction like the pygmy three-toed sloth. It’s a true biodiversity hotspot here in Panama. So, pack your sense of adventure, because we’re about to embark on a journey to one of Panama’s best-kept secrets!
THE FASCINATING GEOGRAPHY OF ESCUDO DE VERAGUAS
Escudo de Veraguas is located about 2 hours off the coast of Isla Colón in Bocas del Toro. We met up with Jacob, our guide, at the Bastimentos Pier in Bocas Town at 7:30 am. From there, we headed out with a lively group of young biologists and a photographer into the Caribbean waters only stopping to place our lunch order at Kusapin, a typical comida criolla restaurant. As we approached the island, my mind was blown at the landscape of smooth, sandstone formations contrasted against the aqua waters. Our first stop was a semi-circular beach flanked by cavernous walls with warm, transparent water perfect for a dip.
CRYSTAL CLEAR WATERS
As we continued along the shore, we made our way to a spectacular spot with intensely brilliant turquoise waters dotted with small islands. I couldn’t wait to see what awaited below the water’s surface. At first glance: a sandy bottom in about 35 feet of water with amazing clarity. I headed over toward what looked like rocks and coral. I was amazed to see a giant shelf of coral that is home to an array of fish in different shapes and sizes, spiny urchins and anemones undulating with the current. It was without a doubt the best snorkeling I have done in Panamá. I spotted tiny little black fish with brilliant blue polka dots, yellow and purple fish, parrot and butterfly fish. Our guide had a great eye and pointed out several giant sand-covered conch shells on the ocean floor.
UNIQUE WILDLIFE AND BIODIVERSITY
After snorkeling to our hearts’ content on the reef, we cruised through the shallows over the plentiful seagrass. We continued into the red mangroves where our guide and captain searched the trees for the endemic pygmy three-toed sloth grazing on leaves. Over the millennia, Escudo de Veraguas has detached and reattached itself to the mainland allowing for flora and fauna to evolve into separate species. Escudo de Veraguas is the only place on the planet to find these sloths, so seeing one is a very special experience. According to the Animal Welfare Institute, there may only be 48 left in the wild. Sources cite mangrove logging, predation, hunting and lack of proper protections as the main reasons for the decline in their numbers.
We eventually pulled into a small beach among the mangroves where Jacob got out to take a look around. He led us to, not one, but two of these magical creatures. We watched in awe as the tiny sloth took all of us in. In true sloth fashion, it eventually fell asleep. What a memorable experience. As a few of us lingered watching our sloth friend, another person called out “culebra!” signifying there was a snake. Escudo de Veraguas is also home to the beautiful eyelash viper which comes in a variety of colors. This was such an incredible sighting. The diversity of flora and fauna here is extensive with a high incidence of endemism due to the islands’ separation from the mainland. The Escudo Zamia plant, Solitary Fruit-eating Bat, Maritime Worm Salamander, and various birds are just a few examples of unique species only found here making it imperative to conserve their species. Once they are gone, they are gone forever.
SPOTTING FLORA AND FAUNA
It seems like any time of day is a good time to spot wildlife on Escudo de Veraguas. Our guides were very adept at knowing what to look for. You might want to bring binoculars, your good camera, and a GoPro for underwater shots. With such an array of plant and animal life, it is so important to approach animals with respect and caution. After all, they are in their natural, fragile habitats and may feel threatened. Do not remove conch shells from the ocean floor or mangroves: it is key to ensuring their longevity. Also, take care not to disturb turtle nests signposted on the beaches.
PRISTINE BEACHES
We ended the day at a spectacular beach with sugary white sands, perfect palm trees and milky blue water. As I floated, I obsessed over the ferns, philodendrons and other gorgeous tropical plants that cascaded down the sides of the rocks. At the first rumble of thunder we climbed back into the panga and headed back toward Kusapin for our lunch of fresh fish, rice and tostones before arriving in Bocas Town.
HOW TO GET TO ESCUDO DE VERAGUAS AND WHEN TO VISIT
Like most destinations, there is more than one way to get to Escudo de Veraguas. That said, it is very remote. The option that we took was from Bocas Town on Isla Colón, Bocas del Toro. We flew from Panama City to Bocas del Toro via Air Panama. I actually met our guide, Jacob, when I was out to eat one night and he told me about his tour. His communication and customer service were excellent and the transportation for the day was very affordable at $80 per person. The tour included: round trip transportation, starting at 7:30am, water, fresh fruit, our lunch and snorkel equipment. He and our captain were very kind and responsible and went out of their way to spot wildlife: conch shells, pygmy three-toed sloths and dolphins. We were back in Bocas Town around 6pm. You can contact Jacob through his Instagram @explorando_panama or via Whatsapp +507 6260-6620. The best times of year to visit Escudo de Veraguas are between March and November.
CONSERVATION EFFORTS AND SUSTAINABLE TOURISM
Researchers come from near and far come to study the unique, endemic species here. The biodiversity of this tiny hidden paradise is astounding. The focus is finding ways to protect the fragile ecosystem and, at the same time, manage the influx of visitors. It’s up to everyone to protect Escudo de Veraguas: researchers, the Ngäbe-Buglé indigenous inhabitants and those lucky enough to make the trip. Leave it better than you found it and take your trash with you.
Finally, this isn’t just another tropical island – it’s a living, breathing testament to the raw beauty of nature. From the sweet smile of a pygmy sloth to the tiniest tropical fish, every moment here is magical. Leaving this paradise, I’m taking not just memories, but a desire to share the story of one of the most magnificent places I’ve ever been fortunate enough to visit.