KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: ISLA COIBA, PANAMA
Did you know that before Isla Coiba was designated a national park and UNESCO World Heritage Site, the island was home to a prison? It wasn’t just any prison, it was the one where the most violent criminals and political prisoners were sent to disappear. What was once a hell on earth, has transformed into a literal paradise, hosting some of the most pristine coral reefs in the Pacific Ocean and home to subspecies of animals that have evolved over millennia of separation from the mainland. Along with its mainland gateway, the surf town of Santa Catalina, these destinations offer adventurous travelers a glimpse into Panama’s wild side that few get to experience. Whether you’re coming for world-class diving or a little surf school action, these are my top tips to know before you go: Isla Coiba, Panama.
THE MAGIC OF ISLA COIBA
Imagine stepping onto an island where time seems to stand still. Isla Coiba, the largest island in Central America, is so unique and biologically diverse, scientists call it a living laboratory of evolution. Its isolation as a former penal colony inadvertently preserved its natural beauty and unique ecosystem which is home to 760 species of fish, 20 species of whales and dolphins, 33 sharks, and mammals such as the Coiba Island Howler and the Coiba Island Agouti.
WORLD CLASS DIVING AND SNORKELING
The warm waters and pristine coral reefs that surround the islands of Isla Coiba National Park are fed by a system of convergent Pacific currents that flow between the Galápagos in Ecuador, Malpelo in Colombia and Isla Coco in Costa Rica. In addition to being nutrient-rich, they provide sanctuary for endemic and migratory species that come to calve every year like clockwork.
Visitors to Santa Catalina can choose from a variety of tour providers that offer SCUBA and snorkeling day trips. Most tours stop at three or four spots to view amazing marine life. I chose Unlimited Adventures Coiba for an all day snorkeling tour and they did not disappoint. We left Santa Catalina at 8 a.m. heading out into the choppy Pacific, bouncing our way to the first rocky point where we slid into the sea. Our tour guide and self-proclaimed “mama,” Naty, led us around the reef pointing out white-tipped and black-tipped reef sharks, golden puffer fish and epic schools of thousands of jackfish. I’ve snorkeled in quite a few fantastic locales, but I haven’t seen any place quite like Isla Coiba. The numbers of fish were insane.
At our second stop, we were lucky enough to spot three Hawksbill turtles feasting on the sea floor parting corals and rocks to find their dinner. As we circled the tiny island, we saw gorgeous tropical fish in every color of the rainbow: jacks, parrotfish, Moorish Idols and polka dotted puffer fish.
ON THE MAIN ISLAND
Our third stop was the main island in the park where you’ll find a visitor’s center with interesting exhibits explaining in great detail how Coiba came to be the living laboratory that it is. Climb to the “mirador” overlooking the peaceful waters where humpback whale mothers teach their calves survival techniques through play from July to October. If you’re really lucky, you may catch a glimpse of scarlet macaws soaring across the canopy or the curious Coiba Island Howler checking out park visitors.
Our final stop was a true “Instagrammer’s paradise.” The beach was full of “lanchas” or boats with beachgoers soaking up the amazing tropical vibes. Crystalline waters, giant conch shells and exotic palm trees created the perfect backdrop for the end to a spectacular day. We snacked on the freshest pineapple, walked the beautiful sands and burned these beautiful sights on to our brains before we headed back to Santa Catalina.
SURF’S UP IN SANTA CATALINA
While many travelers see Santa Catalina merely as a jumping-off point for Coiba, this charming village deserves attention in its own right. The sleepy little seaside town has cultivated a perfect balance of development and preservation, maintaining its authentic Panamanian character while offering comfortable amenities for visitors.
If you’ve ever dreamed of giving surfing a try, Santa Catalina is the perfect spot to check out one of many surf schools. Learn from certified professionals in an environment that’s perfect for beginners to intermediate level surfers. This internationally recognized surf spot boasts many beaches from Punta Brava to Isla Cebaco.
TOP RATED SURF-SCHOOLS IN SANTA CATALINA
- Waluaa Surf and Yoga Retreat combining adventure and relaxation. Healthy meals, daily surf and yoga, massage and more make Waluaa an ideal getaway.
- Fluid Adventures Panama choose from onsite accommodations and surf camps of 3, 4 and 5 days or stay offsite for a more budget-friendly experience.
- Rancho Estero charming seaside cabins overlooking the beach. Choose from 2, 3 and 4 day packages and rent your boards onsite.
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WHERE TO STAY
VILLA COCO
Guests can’t say enough good things about tranquil Villa Coco. With well manicured gardens, a dreamy pool and top notch restaurant, you won’t want for anything here.
VILLA COCO l BOOK NOW
HOTEL SANTA CATALINA PANAMA
If you’re looking for unbeatable views, ocean access and a chill vibe, Hotel Santa Catalina is the spot.
HOTEL SANTA CATALINA PANAMA l BOOK NOW
HOTEL Y RESTAURANTE MAMA INES
Seaside Hotel y Restaurante Mama Ines is the best of the best at a lower price point. Located 15-20 minutes walking distance outside of Santa Catalina, this lovely hotel occupies one of the most beautiful locations on Playa Estero.
HOTEL Y RESTAURANTE MAMA INES l BOOK NOW
WHEN TO GO
There are a few “prime times” to visit Isla Coiba National Park. The dry season runs from December to April and offers the best weather conditions with sunny skies and less humidity. Whale sharks also migrate through these warm waters during the dry season–January to March. If you’d like to see or swim with one of these gentle giants, this is the optimal time to visit.
On the other hand, if you are hoping to see humpback whales, prime whale watching season runs from July to October. Humpback whales breed and calve in these warm waters. Witness the magic of these epic creatures breaching and mothers teaching their young survival skills through play during these months.
Finally, if you are looking to test your luck at surfing, the surf is consistently good year-round, with the biggest swells from March to December.
WHAT TO PACK
Don’t get caught without all your beach essentials. These are the items I suggest to make your trip to Coiba just perfect.
- Passport or cedula, because Isla Coiba is a national park, it’s best to have your documents on hand. I was not asked to present my passport at Isla Coiba, but I have been at other National Parks and refuges around Panama. Better to be safe than sorry.
- Snorkel set – it is so nice to have your own snorkel set. You never know when you’ll stumble upon a perfect spot for exploring rocky shores and reefs.
- Microfiber beach towel – I cannot tell you how much I love mine. This towel takes up considerably less space, dries quickly, repels sand and the little bag has room for sunscreen and a couple snacks.
- Reef-safe sunscreen – essential for protecting the marine ecosystem.
- Underwater camera – there are spectacular underwater scenes to capture. It might be a splurge, but how cool are those memories?
- Water shoes – on more than one occasion here in Panama, I have definitely wished I had my water shoes with me. Walking on sharp rocks, shells or chunks of coral hurts. You’ll be thankful you brought these.
- Insect repellent for dawn and dusk
- Cash ATMs are scarce in Santa Catalina
- Motion sickness medication for boat journeys
GETTING TO SANTA CATALINA
Santa Catalina serves as your jumping-off point to Isla Coiba, and getting there is half the adventure. From Panama City, you’ll wind through the countryside for about 6-7 hours until you reach this laid-back surf village. Don’t let the remote location deter you – this epic journey reveals Panama’s diverse landscapes, from rolling hills to dramatic coastlines.
I took the earliest bus out of the national terminal at Albrook heading toward the town of Soná. The trip costs $9.75 and lasts about 5 1/2 hours with a stop in Anton for snacks and bathroom. From Soná, I took the 1pm bus to Santa Catalina arriving around 2:30pm. The second leg of the trip cost $5 for a total of $15 one way from Panamá.
PRO TIP, when you arrive at Soná, check with the attendant in the office for the most current schedule returning to PTY. Sunday returns may be different as well. I took the 8am bus from Santa Catalina arriving at 9:30, so that I could take the 10:30 bus home. The bus was very full when I arrived and ended up leaving at 10:08 am. This is something to take into consideration: times are “flexible” here.
SANTA CATALINA TO ISLA COIBA NATIONAL PARK
The real adventure begins with the boat journey from Santa Catalina to Isla Coiba. The hour-long trip across open ocean waters can be choppy, but the destination more than makes up for any temporary discomfort. As you approach the island, you might spot dolphins playing in the boat’s wake or, if you’re lucky, the splash of a humpback whale during migration season.
Whether you’re an avid diver, a passionate surfer, or simply someone seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, Isla Coiba and Santa Catalina offer experiences that will stay with you forever. The combination of pristine nature, world-class marine life, and authentic Panamanian culture creates a destination that’s truly special.
From the moment you step onto Santa Catalina’s beaches or dive into Coiba’s crystal-clear waters, you’ll understand why these places are considered hidden gems of Panama. Just remember – the best souvenirs are the memories you’ll make and the photos you’ll take, leaving only footprints behind in this Pacific paradise.
With so many possibilities to explore, start making your list of things to know before you go to Isla Coiba, Panama. Contact local dive shops and accommodations well in advance, especially during peak season. While getting here might take some effort, those who make the journey are rewarded with experiences that few travelers ever get to enjoy. Welcome to your next great adventure!