EXPLORING AUTHENTIC PANAMANIAN FOOD
FONDAS
In Ciudad de Panamá, there is no shortage of good food. There are rooftop bars, food truck parks, and elegant restaurants, but what is authentic Panamanian food and where does one find it? Whether you’re just passing through or you make your home here, exploring authentic Panamanian food should be on your to-do list. More often than not, when I want a home-cooked meal, I find myself hitting up a fonda for “comida criolla” or typical Panamanian fare. Fondas are a staple of Panamanian life serving up the most characteristic, delicious dishes at a bargain price, usually maxing out at around five or six dollars for a heaping plate of home-cooked food and a chicha to wash it down. They come in all shapes and sizes ranging from a sheet metal shack, a diner style counter or an open air restaurant with a cool tropical vibe.
A typical fonda will serve breakfast and lunch with some remaining open 24/7. Breakfast favorites are: hojaldre, eggs, empanadas and sausages. Typical lunch and dinner fare will always consist of white rice, red beans or lentils, maduros, and an array of accompanying proteins like pollo guisado, carne guisada, and albóndigas, cooked in yummy sauces for hours until the meats are tender. I’ve highlighted a couple of my favorites.
FONDA EL MOTETE, VIA ESPANA
I probably passed by this super-tropical looking fonda a hundred times before I finally figured I’d see what it was all about, as it is always busy–24/7. Honestly, I can’t remember what I got on my first visit. What I do know is I can’t stop going back. This is the largest fonda that I’ve been to with lots of space to sit, more dishes to choose from than the average fonda, a bonus parrillada or grill, and a chicha station to add some variety. Without exception, everything I have had at El Motete is delicious: the beans, salads, sauces and freshly squeezed fruit juices are all excellent. You can bet when there are meatballs available I’m going with those.
FONDA MAMA GALLINA, OBARRIO
This one came highly recommended and it did not disappoint. Located in Obarrio, it was worth the extra effort to find it. Everything is so delicious and fresh. It’s hard to go wrong with grilled chicken, rice, beans, salad, maduros and a freshly squeezed juice for $4.50 and still go home with at least half of my meal.
At the end of the day, fondas are a great option for something tasty, nutritious and super-economical. After all, I don’t mind putting my leftover food budget toward adventures here in Panama.
FONDA FOODS
Exploring authentic Panamanian food is fun and tasty. Here is a guide to some of the most typical offerings.
- Bollo – similar to a tamale, most often made with corn and cheese. They are a nice and creamy side.
- Carimañolas – stuffed yucca fritters similar to empanadas. There is usually some seasoned ground beef inside.
- (Una) Comida – while comida means food, ordering “una comida” is ordering a meal of meat, rice, beans and sides.
- Hojaldre – a fried bread consisting of flour, eggs a little sugar and salt. It’s great for sopping up juices.
- Maduros – overripe plantains fried to caramelized perfection. So yummy and sweet.
- Pata – not a girl duck, but rather a paw or foot of an animal. Often served as a soup or stew.
- Porotos – small red beans that are very commonplace here.
- Ropa Vieja – shredded beef simmered in sauce made with onions, peppers, tomatoes and spices.
- Sancocho – seemingly the most popular item eaten by locals. A soup of chicken, corn, yucca, and potatoes.
EL TRAPICHE
El Trapiche is THE restaurant serving classic Panamanian fare. With five locations around town, it is a go-to for locals and highly recommended for tourists looking for a taste of traditional comida criolla. Here, they serve sandwiches (emparedados), typical dishes like ropa vieja, sancocho and appetizers sampler platters like the fiesta panameña. They even sell prepackaged items like hojaldra dough, empanadas and chombo sauce. It’s a must do for any itinerary here in Panamá.
EN LA FONDA, CASCO VIEJO
En La Fonda is a newcomer in the world of authentic Panamanian food. It is located at the beginnings of Casco Viejo. You can’t miss it: its imposing diablo rojo (typical Panamanian bus) makes its presence known from the sidewalk. Inside, you are transported to different corners of Panamá: with murals of Bocas del Toro, tropical flowers and women dressed in traditional clothing. The atmosphere is lively and the food is very satisfying. Serving everything from breakfast items to ceviche, as well as variety plates that will feed a few, En La Fonda is good option for those who are staying closer to the Casco area.
FONDA LO QUE HAY, CASCO VIEJO
Last, but most certainly not least, is Fonda Lo Que Hay. I’ve talked a lot about fondas, but this is a next level experience. Fonda Lo Que Hay consistently makes the list of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants serving elevated Panamanian cuisine. The aesthetic of the restaurant is lovely with dark paneling, neon lights and exotic, tropical plants, creating the perfect backdrop for their delicious dishes. Here, the menu can change according to what’s available, or as its name says, “what there is.” Staples on the menu range from fried chicken to pasta, clams to octopus–all executed and presented perfectly. My daughter and I loved the fried chicken, pork leg sandwich and mojitos. It’s definitely time to go back and try something new.
There are endless fondas and eateries for exploring authentic Panamanian food. Let me know if you try any of my recommendations. I’d love to hear from you.