One night in the depths of another internet rabbit hole, I stumbled upon this not-so-typical tour that I’ve been wanting to check out for quite a while now. Just steps beyond the bougie cafes and rooftops of historic Casco Viejo lies El Chorrillo, the barrio that gave Panama so many of her most famous–if not notorious–native sons. Boxer Roberto Duran, salsero Ruben Blades and dictator Manuel Noriega all hail from the area. Victor Peretz of Local in PTY, guided me through the “red zone” painting a fascinating picture of the neighborhood’s history from immigrants who came from afar to work on the Panama Canal to its current day residents who strive to follow in the footsteps of those greats who came before them.
BOXING
We walked from Plaza Herrera to El Chorillo, where Victor was greeted by locals who know and love him. The neighborhood is a mix of high-rise housing projects and inhabited, dilapidated homes from years gone by. The contrast between the gentrified streets of Casco and the somewhat forgotten barrio of El Chorillo is a stark one. As we made our way through the neighborhood, we visited the gym where legendary boxer, Roberto Duran trained. The love of boxing runs deep here. Many young people spend their evenings practicing as they aspire to be the next champion who steps into the ring.
HISTORY
As we continued our tour, Victor explained that many of the residents living here are descendants of Jamaicans who arrived during the early 1900s to build the canal. Then, he delved into a more controversial topic: the US invasion of Panama in 1989, to depose dictator Manuel Noriega. This area is ground zero. There are significant discrepancies between US and Panamanian statistics in terms of the number of people killed during Operation Just Cause, ranging from 200 to 4,500. In the end, it’s a blight on the history of US-Panamanian relations.
GATHERING
Later, just outside the soccer field, we stopped for a few moments to watch local men playing dominoes. This is a very typical Caribbean tradition. Some men play for fun while others wager on their games. Apparently, it’s customary to slam the dominoes down in a show of dominance over your opponents. The competition is intense, but so is the camaraderie.
THE FUTURE
Victor emphasizes that there are always those striving to get ahead in spite of the disadvantages and poverty they face. The kids that spend their free time at the UPC are a perfect example. The UPC, or Unidad Preventiva Comunitaria, is a local organization working out of the police station in El Chorillo. Their goal is to give at-risk kids a safe place to learn and play, effectively creating a bridge between the younger generation and the police. This is one key step in making El Chorillo a better place to live. If you are interested in volunteer opportunities or contributing much needed basics like pens, pencils, coloring books or games, you can check out Local in PTY Kids on Instagram.
One Sunday, after my initial tour, I spent time with local expat volunteers, working with students who came for English lessons. These hard-working teens had already spent the morning with Victor cleaning the shores of Casco. Their energy was infectious and their need was great. It was really a wonderful and fulfilling experience to meet these exceptional kids.
In the end, the chance to visit this gritty area of the city with a local, who understands the history, culture and trajectory of this neighborhood was very eye-opening. If you are looking for an off the beaten path, authentic experience, this is definitely one for your list.
MORE ABOUT VICTOR PERETZ
I met Victor through our mutual interest in travel. He is originally from Islas San Blas and splits his time between the islands of Guna Yala and PTY. He specializes in “creating memorable experiences for conscious and curious travelers.” Victor is one of the coolest people I’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting–in my entire life. He is fun, uber-intelligent, and genuine. Victor constantly looks for ways to innovate in his tourism business and improve life on the islands, all while working with children’s organizations he created here in PTY as well as in Islas San Blas. He is very attentive to his clients, always making sure they have the best time and learn as much as they want to learn about both locales he calls home.