Starfish Beach, Bocas del Toro
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THE MAGIC OF BOCAS DEL TORO

When I think of “magical” places, one place leaps to mind. Bocas del Toro has a vibe unlike any other place I’ve ever visited.  This archipelago lies 30 minutes south of Costa Rica and ecotourism thrives here among the coral reefs, rainforests and mangroves. In fact, some of the best days of my life have been spent in this island paradise. From drinking tropical adult beverages at Starfish Beach with my kids, exploring underwater reefs with my favorite guy or close encounters of the sloth kind, every day on Bocas has been “the best day.” This is my short list of fabulous things to do and places to see in this most idyllic spot.

STARFISH BEACH

Grab a quick breakfast at one of many restaurants and cafes in town before heading to Starfish Beach for a day of total relaxation. The Boca del Drago buses run throughout the day leaving from the park in town on the even hours beginning at 6am. The last bus back to town leaves at 5. The trip is just shy of an hour. When you arrive at Boca del Drago, it’s a 10-15 minute walk to reach the seaside shacks of  Playa Estrella. You can also grab a water taxi for $2 that will drop you off at the beach at one of many restaurants on the shore. Just pick the one that fits your mood and make yourself at home for the day. 

Before you settle in, head down to the far end of the island near the mangroves. I had the best luck finding the most starfish here away away from the masses. Be careful not to take the starfish out of the water: it’s said that doing so may end up killing them. I like to enjoy them without touching them.

The calm waters of Starfish Beach make it a fantastic place to chill seaside watching the world go by. You won’t go hungry here. In addition to serving delicious drinks, the beachside huts offer typical “comida criolla:” fresh fish, chicken, lobster, rice and beans. For someone who like me, who’s always on the go, a day on Starfish Beach is a much needed change of pace.  It is truly one of the best days.

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Playa Estrella
Beachgoers at Starfish Beach
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Playa Estrella or Starfish Beach

When you make your way back into Bocas Town hungry for dinner, you’ll find numerous options. A couple of my favorites are:

La Buga GastroMarket is located along the water on Calle 3era in Bocas del Toro. It’s one of those eateries that has a book for a menu, filled with everything from arepas to seafood and delicious pasta dishes.  All of the dishes I’ve had here are amazing. It’s a super-cool beachy spot over the water offering more than just delicious food:  La Buga also offers diving and surfing lessons as well as bikes and SUPs for rent at daily rates.

Coco Fastronomy is a Caribbean eatery on Calle 2nda. It offers up an amazing view and flavorful bowls, bapes or sandwiches and bar food. They also have some great happy hour specials from 5-7pm.

BIOLUMINESCENCE TOUR

Bocas del Toro is one of those rare places where you can witness the magic of bioluminescence. There are a few local companies that offer the tour during the week of the new moon as viewing this phenomenon is easier in total darkness. I was a little skeptical because I didn’t have a lot of luck with the bioluminescent beach in Isla Holbox, Mexico. However, this tour was one of the most mind blowing things I’ve ever seen. 

We left the dock at La Buga with our captain from our cacao farm tour and ventured out into the ocean about 10 minutes from Bocas Town. Under the night sky,  our guide shined his light over the water for a minute or so. When he turned it off, it was like looking at a sky full of stars shimmering in the Caribbean Sea. I couldn’t believe how beautiful it was. I couldn’t get enough of watching these tiny microorganisms illuminating the water all around our boat. If you are in Bocas del Toro during the week of the new moon, I highly recommend one of these tours. At around $20 per person, it’s a small price for such an incredible experience.

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SNORKELING AND ISLAND HOPPING

You can’t visit Bocas del Toro without some serious island hopping and snorkeling. There are numerous tours available from Bocas Town to do just that.  I’ve chosen some of my most favorite spots in the archipelago are: 

CAYO ZAPATILLA

Cayo Zapatilla is a top stop on most outings offered from Bocas Town, Isla Colon. Unlike Playa Estrella, there’s not necessarily much to do on Cayo Zapatilla and that’s the point.  It’s a remote paradise where tourists land for a few hours to take photos under palm trees and sunbathe.  My teenage children and their friends were beyond happy throwing coconuts at other coconuts in the trees and learning to crack them open for a fresh, tropical treat. Cayo Zapatilla is in a word: a dream.

Beautiful Cayo Zapatilla in Bocas del Toro
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Cayo Zapatilla

ISLA PAJAROS

Far flung Isla Pájaro is like something out of Jurassic Park.  It is breathtaking with its arches carved out by the sea, draped in lush tropical vegetation. Rare marine birds like the red billed tropic bird and the brown booby alight here making it a real draw for birders.  The crystalline waters are beautiful for a dip in the warm ocean, but there is no real beach here. If conditions are good, you can enjoy a swim off the shores of this uniquely dreamy locale.

Isla Pajaros, Bocas del Toro
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Isla Pajaros

HOSPITAL POINT

I really enjoyed my time at Hospital Point. There is a lovely little beach with a hillside covered in monstera deliciosa and other striking tropical plants.  When I wasn’t snorkeling in the warm waters, I was collecting loads of beautiful sea glass in an array of colors: aqua, green, clear and brown.  This spot is not too far from Bocas Town and the scenery is to die for.

Hospital Point, Bocas del Toro
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Hospital Point

BASTIMENTOS

Parque Nacional Isla Bastimentos is one of the most popular destinations in all the archipelago. People come looking for its strawberry poison-dart frog, a Afro-Antillean culture, pristine beaches and organic farming. It is definitely worth a visit to soak up some of the distinct island atmosphere.

When you arrive on the Island, listen closely and you might hear locals, or Guariguari, speaking their language that goes by the same name. It’s a blend of English, French and Spanish that’s also known as patua or patois.  This Afro-Antillean culture manifests in calypso and reggae music, arroz con coco and in its characteristic architecture of the Old Bank community.

Biodiveristy on Bastimentos abounds. On my first visit to Bastimentos, I ticked off my entire wish list and then some. I came for the frogs and was lucky enough to see my first monkeys and sloth in the wild. After I had a delicious lunch at the dock, I headed up the hill searching for Red Frog Beach. Because trails are not well-marked here in Panama, I never found the beach, but I did find the frogs with a little help from a friendly Scottish woman who owns Up in the Hill organic chocolate farm and ecolodge. She spotted me wandering around her garden looking for directions and taught me how to identify the sounds of the frogs. With a lot of patience and determination, I finally found a pair of these stunning creatures.

Strawberry poison-dart frog, Bastimentos, Bocas del Toro
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Strawberry poison-dart frog
Three-toed sloth, Bocas del Toro
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The luck I had finding this three-toed sloth snacking at eye level still astounds me.

SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT

ORGANIC CACAO FARM

Start the day off with a tour of Green Acres Chocolate Farm. When I booked our reservation with Green Acres, Gary sent me the names of various boat taxis on Isla Colon that could provide the transportation to and from his island farm.  This tour is like two in one: a beautiful garden setting with lush tropical plants and endemic animals as well as a fascinating look into the making of a host of products made from cacao. On the property, we saw a troop of monkeys with two adorable babies, poison dart frogs, bats and hummingbirds.  

Our guide pointed out a variety of trees in the forest that are used for everything from cabins to canoes.  We learned about the cacao fruit, the fermentation process and got to sample some delicious treats at the end.  I tried a homemade peanut butter and chocolate treat similar to a Reese’s peanut butter cup, cacao tea and cacao nibs which are a delicious superfood. 

Green Acres Chocolate Farm, Bocas del Toro
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BLUFF BEACH

To wrap up your Bocas adventure, I suggest heading out to Bluff Beach for a walk. Bluff Beach, on Isla Colon, is a wild, beautiful beach that reminds me of spots I’ve visited in Hawaii with golden sand, gnarled palm trees, driftwood and strong waves that attract boogie boarders and surfers alike. The beach is not really suitable for swimming as the rip current here is real and swimmers can find themselves in trouble very easily. This beach is quite lengthy, at around 5 miles long, and is a great place to get a good workout, pack a picnic or just spend the day relaxing.

Bluff Beach Isla Colon, Bocas del Toro
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Along the way to and from Bluff Beach, you’ll pass by plenty of food options. From Ohanas American offerings to the elevated cuisine at five star La Coralina Island House, there is something for everyone.

I hold a special place in my heart for Bocas del Toro. It’s where I have made memories to last a lifetime: traveling solo, with my children and with a special someone. Even after five visits, I’m still discovering new and breathtaking places. I will keep coming back to the endless magic that is Bocas del Toro.


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WHERE TO STAY IN BOCAS DEL TORO

Whether you’re counting your pennies or splurging, Bocas has an option that’s perfect for you.

SELINA

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Located in the heart of Bocas Town, this oceanfront hostel is very popular with young travelers. Choose a stay in shared accommodations with other adventurers or an individual room. Enjoy drinks and dinner over the water at La Neta Caribe.


AWKWABA LODGE

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A stunning tropical retreat at an affordable price on Isla Bastimentos. Beautifully appointed rooms with exotic gardens and stellar sea views.


OASIS BLUFF BEACH

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Moderately-priced spacious spaces with beautiful minimalist touches. The property boasts gorgeous jungle and ocean views from the privacy of your outdoor terrace.


LA CORALINA ISLAND HOUSE

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This luxury resort is stunning with its Balinese styling, expansive outdoor area and ocean views. Stay just steps away from Bluff Beach and the rainforest in the lap of luxury.


NAYARA BOCAS DEL TORO-ALL INCLUSIVE

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This is the stuff that dreams are made of. Disconnect at this adults only property on Isla Frangipani. The property is made up of numerous over water bungalows and exotic treehouses that tower above the lush tropical flora. Snorkel, swim and dine to your heart’s content.


Do you have questions or recommendations about Bocas del Toro? I’d love to hear from you. Comment below!

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